Biking to Nowhere

I bought a bicycle! For my life of few possessions, this was a monumental purchase. It is a brand new Jamis bike. It’s beautiful to me. It represents my sweat, my endurance, and my freedom from tuk tuks. I bought it on a Saturday afternoon at a place called Fat Free Bike Shop in the center of town. I knew it would be getting dark around 5:30 or 6:00pm, so I asked for a map, bought a helmet (don’t worry mom and dad), and decided to take my new bike home. So, what I know now is that PCC (my school) is 7.1km away from the center of town. The map I was provided with was a photocopied map of Chiang Rai with only a few labels in English –too bad street signs are in Thai script huh?

The woman at the bike shop explained to me which road I would need to take out of town, and then traced her finger through the air and told me to just keep riding until things look familiar, gesturing the final destination, PCC, was off the map by quite some distance. Why not optimism right? I took off. I rode over the Gok River, around a bit, back over the Gok River. I stopped and asked for directions. I tried to use common sense. After two weeks in Chiang Rai, I had only been to the center of town about three times, of which I arrived by tuk tuk lazily unaware of the direction it took to get there.

I was peddling…nothing around, no one around. Out of the corner of my left eye, I could see the sun was setting. I saw a pick-up truck, and then another, and another. Up ahead…nothing. I had no idea where home was, so I peddled up to the row of cars and trucks, to the small strip of restaurants that seemed to be perfectly tucked into the landscape. I got off my bike and tried to stretch what little Thai language I knew to explain my situation. Communication was obviously a problem, but I did actually receive one gestured offer to drive me to “jew-LAH-pborn” (Princess Chulabhorn, my school). However, the man was pointing and exclaiming that my bike would not fit in his car. I couldn’t do it; I couldn’t abandon my new bike in a place that was off my map and a complete mystery to me. I pressed on, smiling frequently, explaining “kor tort ka, poot pasa thai nit noi ka” (sorry, I speak only a little Thai) to the waitress. I sat at a table staring blankly at my phrasebook, realizing that phrases like “I just bought this bike and tried to ride home not knowing where home is, and now I’m lost” or “Would it be possible to sleep in your restaurant tonight? I’m an idiot” just aren’t part of everyday Thai conversation.

The waitress came up again, this time gesturing that I follow her. She had found someone who spoke English to listen to my pleas. After only twenty seconds of meeting him, and telling him my ridiculous predicament, he offered me and my bike a ride to PCC in his truck. Awesome! I quickly asked him if he was in the middle of dinner. As it turned out, it was his brother’s birthday. I joined the group of six or seven Thai men, and was immediately welcomed to the birthday celebration. After a nice meal, lots of “cheers”, and what I remember being two beers, the group asked if I would go dancing with them. I kindly declined the offer, and was reminded by my new friend, that he could take me home at any time. I said goodbye to the group, and took my new friend up on his offer. My new friend, Bomb (his nickname) is a kind Thai soul who spent eleven years living in New Zealand, and had coincidentally opened a language school in Chiang Rai three years ago. It took ten or twelve minutes of driving to get to the school. I said thank you and goodbye to Bomb and unloaded my bike from the bed of his truck. I was home, safe, sound, and optimistic!

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The next day I downloaded Google Earth. It only took me four hours to locate the school on the map, but I am happy to report that I now know my way into town.

Language, Sports, Music...Golden!

I am sitting in the English Department right now. Right now I am sitting in a chair in Thailand. I’m having one of those “someone please pinch me” moments. The lines seem to be blurred between time, place, work, and play. One thing is certain, I feel so appreciative to be here.


During my days here at PCC (short for Princess Chulabhorn’s College, the place I am working), I help students practice their English. At lunchtime each day, I practice my Thai with the faculty in the teacher’s room. In the afternoons, I play sports with the students. Yesterday, I went running around the soccer field. After dinner I was invited by some students to play volleyball –it was tons of fun! Tonight I have been asked to play basketball with some of the students.



Basically, news travels here about the “farangs” (foreigners). In case I haven’t mentioned, I also teach with two other American girls who went to college together in Pittsburgh. So, at this point they know that Paige is the athlete who will join in with the students for any sport. The students play many sports here at PCC, but to my disappointment, only the male students play football (soccer). I have also been asked several times to play tennis and join some of the running groups here.



On Friday, I am hosting an interest meeting for a group I am creating at school. I have posted the flyers I created throughout the school. I am so eager to see who will be interested.
Also, because of this idea and my willingness to share MP3 files of American music with the other teachers (CCR is the most requested thus far), I have been asked to travel in January as a representative of PCC Chiang Rai and a judge at the annual singing competition (all songs will be in English).



This Friday, the committee working with Fulbright Thailand will be traveling to Chiang Rai for their annual board meeting. This should include 15 or so board members, some of whom I have not met, as well as a handful of other important people to the program and to Thailand. I have been invited to join them for dinner, and am waiting to hear more details. I am absolutely pumped to see Brad and hear stories about his time teaching thus far.



Well, I have one more class to teach this afternoon.

Sawatdee jaow (northern Thai dialect = hello/goodbye)

Random Observations and Occurrences

I have been working on this blog post for quite some time now. Therefore, it may seem out-of-date. These are in no particular order, but like the title describes, they are random observations and occurrences during my time thus far in Thailand.

Stray dogs: There are perhaps six or seven stray dogs that are regulars on our street in Bangkok. At Chulalongkorn University, where we study during the day, there are another fifteen or so local strays that claim the campus. I’m not entirely sure why there is such a giant population of stray dogs in Bangkok. However, the stray dogs are something I will never forget about being here.

Yellow shirts: In Thailand, there is a specific color used to represent each day of the week. The current King was born on a Monday. Monday is represented by the color yellow. Every Monday you will find the streets glowing with yellow polo shirts embroidered with the King’s symbol.

Government protests: Not really sure what I can say at this point. They are happening in and around the Government House in Bangkok. The protests are serious and at some points dangerous. I am learning more about the history of Thai politics and the nature of these protests through lectures at Chulalongkorn University. I may go into details of what I have learned in another blog post, but for now, just know that I am safe.

Tuk Tuks: The other evening, Kate and I hopped in a tuk tuk for what felt like the last time in our lives. Without hesitation, the driver swerved into on-coming traffic during rush hour in Bangkok. Thank god we’re alive, ha! Bangkok traffic is an almost indescribable monster. I just found out that people actually refer to motorcycles as mosquitoes because they weave in and out of traffic making their own lanes.

Meeting Nick: I wasn’t feeling much like myself one afternoon, so I decided to treat myself to some sushi. I went to this great Japanese restaurant near the dorm. During my meal, I was working on my lesson plan for the next morning, when an older Thai man walked up to my table. He said he wanted to know what meal I had ordered because I appeared to be enjoying it (I had ordered salmon sashimi on rice and seaweed—and it was FANTASTIC). He then asked me a few questions about why I was in Thailand, and I learned that he had lived in Vermont while in high school during our short conversation. At the end of the meal, I was waiting on the check which I expected to total something close to 400 baht (a bit more pricey than my typical street-food dinner costing 30-40 baht). Next thing I knew, this same Thai man came up again to my table to tell me that he took the liberty to pay my bill. He asked if he could sit and chat for a minute and of course I agreed. He told me that people he met in America had been so great to him that he wanted to give back. We talked about Thailand, about teaching, about U.S. economy, U.S. politics, and the upcoming election. I walked home with a smile, I walked home with admiration, realizing (yet again) how unboundedly generous Thai people can be. A week later, I had dinner again with Nick in order to learn more about him and his story. Apparently he loves to golf and has run his family’s business for over three decades or so. Again, kawp khun ka. Thank you Nick, thank you Thailand, and thank you wonderful people who inhabit this beautiful country.

Drinking juice from plastic bags: So, imagine thin plastic bags about the size of sandwich baggies but the consistency of grocery bags with small handles. These bags are seen in the hands of locals, filled with ice, juice or coffee, with a colorful straw leaning toward their mouths. Plastic bags instead of plastic cups? This is very interesting, but not entirely confusing –the bags are made from less plastic and most likely a cheaper alternative.

Kids in pajamas, siting on the back of motorcycles, late at night at the street vendors: ummm, ok.

Cheerleaders practicing everywhere: Dancing, singing, and cheerleading seem to be very popular here.

Running around National Stadium: My running routine around National Stadium during my time in Bangkok has provided some of the greatest reminders of faith and love in humanity. Feet to the pavement, running for my health and mental clarity, I find the beautiful reminder of faith presented in the smiling face and wave of a young Thai child. I don’t run away from things or past things, I run to see things more clearly. Running face to the wind (well, actually there is no breeze in Bangkok) helps me realize that the world is the backdrop which reinforces our faith in everything that exists in and around us.

Some Photographic Reminders of Time Well Spent

Last weekend, I went on another trip to Ko Samed, this time with the entire Fulbright group. The weekend was great, yet sad at the same time realizing that come Monday I would be saying goodbye to some new friends. We laid out on the beach, ate delicious food, had a few cocktails, practiced our Thai, played card games, and all-around enjoyed another incredible weekend in Thailand.

This is where we slept for two nights. Simply Thailand.

This is where we ate breakfast.

A view from the cafe where we played card games for a few hours.

Kate in contemplation.

We are in a small boat that picked us up on the beach and awaiting to board the ferry back to the mainland.

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The previous week, while in Bangkok: Kate, Caryn, Ahna, and I visited the Grand Palace and Wat Arun (Wat means temple in Thai). It was a really great afternoon and provided for some of the most artistic photos I have taken thus far on this trip.

I miss everyone and hope that the people I love (you know who you are) are as happy as humanly possible.

Chook dii ka! Sawatdii ka.